July 18, 2023
_LEARN
/
REFERENCE LAB
Symptoms and Causes of Melasma on Face
Melasma is a highly prevalent form of skin hyperpigmentation characterized by darkened patches on the skin. Although melasma doesn’t pose any health risks, many people prefer to reduce its appearance to improve overall skin tone. Let’s take a closer look at melasma on the face and its potential treatments!
_LEARN
/
REFERENCE LAB
July 18, 2023
Symptoms and Causes of Melasma on Face
Melasma is a highly prevalent form of skin hyperpigmentation characterized by darkened patches on the skin. Although melasma doesn’t pose any health risks, many people prefer to reduce its appearance to improve overall skin tone. Let’s take a closer look at melasma on the face and its potential treatments!
What is Melasma?
You might already know what sun spots are
, but what is melasma exactly? Melasma occurs due to the overproduction and abnormal distribution of melanin in regions of the skin. 1
Melanin ExplainedMelanin is a pigmented polymer that occurs in our skin; the more melanin you have, the darker your skin will be. This polymer is our body’s natural defense against the sun’s damaging rays. Melanin can absorb UV radiation from the sun to avoid damage to skin cells. More sun exposure stimulates melanin production, which is why your skin tans when you’re outside! 2
Melanin is important, but in excess, it leads to uneven skin tone and pigmentation and therefore, melasma. 3Excess melanin in the outermost layer of the skin (the epidermis), leads to epidermal melasma. Excess melanin one layer deeper in the skin, at the dermal layer, leads to dermal melasma.4
Epidermal Melasma
Melasma that is dark brown with well-defined borders is likely epidermal melasma. 4 Because the pigmentation is on the skin’s surface, it’s easier to fix it from the outside.
Hyperpigmentation treatments that exfoliate the skin, accelerate cell turnover, and lighten darkened patches.Dermal Melasma
Dermal melasma is less obvious. The patches are usually blue-gray or bluish-brown and are less defined. 4This type of melasma is more challenging to address because treatments need to penetrate the skin to take effect.
What is Melasma?
You might already know what sun spots are
, but what is melasma exactly? Melasma occurs due to the overproduction and abnormal distribution of melanin in regions of the skin. 1
Melanin ExplainedMelanin is a pigmented polymer that occurs in our skin; the more melanin you have, the darker your skin will be. This polymer is our body’s natural defense against the sun’s damaging rays. Melanin can absorb UV radiation from the sun to avoid damage to skin cells. More sun exposure stimulates melanin production, which is why your skin tans when you’re outside! 2
Melanin is important, but in excess, it leads to uneven skin tone and pigmentation and therefore, melasma. 3Excess melanin in the outermost layer of the skin (the epidermis), leads to epidermal melasma. Excess melanin one layer deeper in the skin, at the dermal layer, leads to dermal melasma.4
Epidermal Melasma
Melasma that is dark brown with well-defined borders is likely epidermal melasma. 4 Because the pigmentation is on the skin’s surface, it’s easier to fix it from the outside.
Hyperpigmentation treatments that exfoliate the skin, accelerate cell turnover, and lighten darkened patches.Dermal Melasma
Dermal melasma is less obvious. The patches are usually blue-gray or bluish-brown and are less defined. 4This type of melasma is more challenging to address because treatments need to penetrate the skin to take effect.
Symptoms of Melasma
The hallmark symptom of melasma is the appearance of darkened patches. These brown patches can vary in size and location, but they commonly appear on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, bridge of the nose, and chin. Melasma typically does not lead to any physical discomfort.
Symptoms of Melasma
The hallmark symptom of melasma is the appearance of darkened patches. These brown patches can vary in size and location, but they commonly appear on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, bridge of the nose, and chin. Melasma typically does not lead to any physical discomfort.
Causes of Melasma on Face
We don’t fully understand why melasma occurs, but here are some potential triggers often associated with the condition.Many hormones are associated with developing melasma on the face including estrogen, progesterone, and thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH).Sun exposure without adequate protection can lead to the development of melasma and worsen existing cases. UV radiation stimulates the production of melanin and also damages the skin. Sun-damaged skin
Hormones
- Estrogen: Estrogen stimulates melanin production and is associated with melasma in women.5 Melasma is present in 15 - 50% of pregnant women due to heightened estrogen levels.6 Contrarily, the rapid estrogen decline in menopausal women can increase sun sensitivity and trigger melasma. (Read more about menopause-related skin changeshereto learn more about menopause and skin changes!)
- Progesterone: Progesterone also encourages melanin production and can lead to melasma in women. Hormone replacement therapies (HRTs) which include progesterone have been linked to melasma in post-menopausal women. 6
- TSH:Although the mechanism is unclear, both hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism are associated with melasma. Treating these imbalances can potentially address this common skin condition. 7
Genetics
Some individuals have a genetic predisposition for melasma. Individuals with a family history of the condition are more likely to experience it. Individuals with a medium to dark skin tone are also more likely to develop melasma and dark spots. 6
Sun Exposure
experiences inflammation which also interferes with the even distribution of melanin. 8
Medications
Medications that affect hormones such as HRT and birth control are associated with melasma. The drug-induced hormone imbalance interferes with melanin production and distribution, resulting in darkened patches on the skin. 5Medications that increase sun sensitivity can also trigger melasma. Some examples are Accutane, Tazorac, some antibiotics, and some blood pressure medications. 9
Causes of Melasma on Face
We don’t fully understand why melasma occurs, but here are some potential triggers often associated with the condition.Many hormones are associated with developing melasma on the face including estrogen, progesterone, and thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH).Sun exposure without adequate protection can lead to the development of melasma and worsen existing cases. UV radiation stimulates the production of melanin and also damages the skin. Sun-damaged skin
Hormones
- Estrogen: Estrogen stimulates melanin production and is associated with melasma in women.5 Melasma is present in 15 - 50% of pregnant women due to heightened estrogen levels.6 Contrarily, the rapid estrogen decline in menopausal women can increase sun sensitivity and trigger melasma. (Read more about menopause-related skin changeshereto learn more about menopause and skin changes!)
- Progesterone: Progesterone also encourages melanin production and can lead to melasma in women. Hormone replacement therapies (HRTs) which include progesterone have been linked to melasma in post-menopausal women. 6
- TSH:Although the mechanism is unclear, both hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism are associated with melasma. Treating these imbalances can potentially address this common skin condition. 7
Genetics
Some individuals have a genetic predisposition for melasma. Individuals with a family history of the condition are more likely to experience it. Individuals with a medium to dark skin tone are also more likely to develop melasma and dark spots. 6
Sun Exposure
experiences inflammation which also interferes with the even distribution of melanin. 8
Medications
Medications that affect hormones such as HRT and birth control are associated with melasma. The drug-induced hormone imbalance interferes with melanin production and distribution, resulting in darkened patches on the skin. 5Medications that increase sun sensitivity can also trigger melasma. Some examples are Accutane, Tazorac, some antibiotics, and some blood pressure medications. 9
How to Treat Melasma on Face
Melasma usually fades after a few months, but it can also last years. Treatments are available to accelerate this process.Adequate sun protection is necessary to prevent the worsening of melasma. So, whip out your wide-brimmed sun hats and sunglasses to minimize direct exposure! Be sure to use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50 and to reapply often.Whether or not you opt-in for melasma treatment, cover-up options are vast! Full-coverage foundations can conceal patches; some products even offer SPF. Try to use full-coverage foundations high in SPF with zinc oxide and niacinamide to accelerate the lightening of patches!
Sun Protection
Topical Medication
Hydroquinone is a frequently prescribed topical medication for melasma. The chemical bleaches the skin by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. 10It takes time for your skin to get used to hydroquinone; at first, you might see redness and irritation. 11Consults a dermatologist before using hydroquinone.
Chemical exfoliating agents such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and kojic acid accelerate the fading of melasma, especially epidermal melasma.12 Retinols are also frequently used but may not be advisable for those with sensitive skin. (Read more about the drawbacks of retinol
hereto learn more about retinol 101 reload!) Many individuals prefer to use exfoliating agents over hydroquinone to avoid drug-related side effects.Chemical Peel
A chemical peel is a second-line melasma treatment. The application of a chemical stimulates the exfoliation of several layers of skin. This method is an aggressive and rapid way to replace hyperpigmented skin layers with newer, healthier skin layers. This treatment should be avoided for dermal melasma to avoid scarring. 13
Laser Therapy
Laser treatment is a third-line treatment and can also address dermal melasma. The laser treatment can selectively target hyperpigmented regions and break down melanin deposits. Although highly effective, multiple treatments are typically required; this can be costly. 14
Cosmetic Approaches
How to Treat Melasma on Face
Melasma usually fades after a few months, but it can also last years. Treatments are available to accelerate this process.Adequate sun protection is necessary to prevent the worsening of melasma. So, whip out your wide-brimmed sun hats and sunglasses to minimize direct exposure! Be sure to use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50 and to reapply often.Whether or not you opt-in for melasma treatment, cover-up options are vast! Full-coverage foundations can conceal patches; some products even offer SPF. Try to use full-coverage foundations high in SPF with zinc oxide and niacinamide to accelerate the lightening of patches!
Sun Protection
Topical Medication
Hydroquinone is a frequently prescribed topical medication for melasma. The chemical bleaches the skin by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin. 10It takes time for your skin to get used to hydroquinone; at first, you might see redness and irritation. 11Consults a dermatologist before using hydroquinone.
Chemical exfoliating agents such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and kojic acid accelerate the fading of melasma, especially epidermal melasma.12 Retinols are also frequently used but may not be advisable for those with sensitive skin. (Read more about the drawbacks of retinol
hereto learn more about retinol 101 reload!) Many individuals prefer to use exfoliating agents over hydroquinone to avoid drug-related side effects.Chemical Peel
A chemical peel is a second-line melasma treatment. The application of a chemical stimulates the exfoliation of several layers of skin. This method is an aggressive and rapid way to replace hyperpigmented skin layers with newer, healthier skin layers. This treatment should be avoided for dermal melasma to avoid scarring. 13
Laser Therapy
Laser treatment is a third-line treatment and can also address dermal melasma. The laser treatment can selectively target hyperpigmented regions and break down melanin deposits. Although highly effective, multiple treatments are typically required; this can be costly. 14
Cosmetic Approaches
Can OS-01 Help Reduce the Appearance of Melasma?
In lab studies on ex vivo human skin samples, the OS-01 peptide was able to reduce melanin deposition in skin superior to common alternatives, such as retinoic acid (retinol) and kojic acid. Read more hereto learn more about hyperpigmentation. Topical skin care products such as OS-01 peptide moisturizer and peptide body lotion also contain several chemical exfoliants that accelerate the fading of melasma; this includes hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
Can OS-01 Help Reduce the Appearance of Melasma?
In lab studies on ex vivo human skin samples, the OS-01 peptide was able to reduce melanin deposition in skin superior to common alternatives, such as retinoic acid (retinol) and kojic acid. Read more hereto learn more about hyperpigmentation. Topical skin care products such as OS-01 peptide moisturizer and peptide body lotion also contain several chemical exfoliants that accelerate the fading of melasma; this includes hyaluronic acid and niacinamide.
Key Takeaways
- Melasma is a common form of skin hyperpigmentation characterized by dark spots or patches on the skin. Several factors can trigger melasma including hormone imbalance, genetic predisposition, certain medications, and sun exposure.
- There are two types of melasma: epidermal and dermal. Epidermal melasma occurs on the surface layer of the skin, the epidermal. Dermal melasma occurs one layer deeper, in the dermal layer of the skin. Dermal melasma can be more difficult to treat with topical applications and chemical peels.
- Melasma typically fades on its own in a few months. However, there are several treatment options that accelerate this process. Topical options include chemical exfoliants and skin-lightening creams such as hydroquinone. Chemical peels and laser therapy are also treatment options.
- Adequate sun protection is necessary to prevent the worsening of melasma. Be sure to use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50 and to reapply often. Full-coverage foundations high in SPF can also conceal any pigmented patch, while simultaneously keeping you protected from the sun.
Key Takeaways
- Melasma is a common form of skin hyperpigmentation characterized by dark spots or patches on the skin. Several factors can trigger melasma including hormone imbalance, genetic predisposition, certain medications, and sun exposure.
- There are two types of melasma: epidermal and dermal. Epidermal melasma occurs on the surface layer of the skin, the epidermal. Dermal melasma occurs one layer deeper, in the dermal layer of the skin. Dermal melasma can be more difficult to treat with topical applications and chemical peels.
- Melasma typically fades on its own in a few months. However, there are several treatment options that accelerate this process. Topical options include chemical exfoliants and skin-lightening creams such as hydroquinone. Chemical peels and laser therapy are also treatment options.
- Adequate sun protection is necessary to prevent the worsening of melasma. Be sure to use sunscreen with an SPF of at least 50 and to reapply often. Full-coverage foundations high in SPF can also conceal any pigmented patch, while simultaneously keeping you protected from the sun.
By Kiran Kumar: Kiran is studying Biotechnology Engineering at UC San Diego. She is highly enthusiastic about longevity sciences and women’s health! You can find more of her work at thisiskirank.com.
By Kiran Kumar: Kiran is studying Biotechnology Engineering at UC San Diego. She is highly enthusiastic about longevity sciences and women’s health! You can find more of her work at thisiskirank.com.
How do you view aging and longevity?
References
How do you view aging and longevity?
References
Reviewed by Alessandra Zonari, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer (CSO) and Co-Founder of OneSkin
Alessandra earned her Master’s degree in stem cell biology, and her PhD in skin regeneration and tissue engineering at the Federal University of Minas Gerais in Brazil in collaboration with the 3B’s Research Group in Portugal. Alessandra did a second post-doctoral at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. She is a co-inventor of three patents and has published 20 peer-reviewed papers in scientific journals.
Reviewed by Alessandra Zonari, PhD, Chief Scientific Officer (CSO) and Co-Founder of OneSkin
Alessandra earned her Master’s degree in stem cell biology, and her PhD in skin regeneration and tissue engineering at the Federal University of Minas Gerais in Brazil in collaboration with the 3B’s Research Group in Portugal. Alessandra did a second post-doctoral at the University of Coimbra in Portugal. She is a co-inventor of three patents and has published 20 peer-reviewed papers in scientific journals.
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